Really, it'll cost less, because you'll be wasting your money on the conduit
and have to use something else anyway ;)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Crail" <farmertodd_at_buckeye-express.com>
To: <nanfa_at_aquaria.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: NANFA-- Building cheap fish containers
> I'll check Monday at work to see if we can even order anything like that.
> We do have the 3 way PVC fittings that Rob mentioned.
>
> Here's how Tropicorium (a coral farm and LFS) solved the issue:
> http://www.tropicorium.com/low_tide_2.html
>
> These tanks are 3.5' tall, consist of block, angle braces on double 2x6's
> and a 60 mil tarp drapped over it. The garden hoses I think help keep it
> from bowing. The tanks are about 8'x16'... A lot of bang for the buck.
>
> They're in Romulus Michigan which is only about 40 minutes from here.
Maybe
> we can day trip up there sometime and look at all the corally goodness :)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Denkhaus, Robert" <Robert.Denkhaus_at_fortworthgov.org>
> To: <nanfa_at_aquaria.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 4:16 PM
> Subject: RE: NANFA-- Building cheap fish containers
>
>
> > Mark,
> >
> > To the best of my knowledge the only 3-way 90 degree fittings that are
> > available are PVC. These fittings are made for making PVC lawn
furniture
> and
> > are a bit thicker and stiffer than normal PVC fittings (Schedule 20 and
> > Schedule 40). The problem is that they are also more expensive than
> normal
> > fittings and not as strong as metal. The strength issue could be solved
> by
> > filling the entire frame structure with cement and letting it set up. I
> would
> > recommend using mortar mix so that you won't have gravel in the mix.
You
> > could also add a bit of strength by slipping pieces of rebar into the
> pipes
> > before assembly.
> >
> > Another suggestion that I just thought of...since it appears that you
> aren't
> > looking to create anything that is very deep and won't have a lot of
> pressure
> > pushing outward...you could just use rebar for your frame. Assuming
that
> you
> > don't have access to a welder, the frame could be constructed using wire
> ties
> > like those that are used to tie steel together when pouring concrete
> footers
> > and such. If you made a prototype that was wired together and liked it,
> it
> > may be worth finding someone to weld future ones together for you. To
> keep
> > the abrasive surface of the rebar from cutting the liner material, the
> rebar
> > could be wrapped in pipe insulation (the cylindrical stuff with a slit
> down
> > the length) and then wrapped in duct tape. Not pretty but fairly cheap
> and
> > functional I would think.
> >
> > Rob Denkhaus
> > Fort Worth Nature Center & Refuge
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Mark
> > > Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 2:38 PM
> > > To: nanfa_at_aquaria.net
> > > Subject: NANFA-- Building cheap fish containers
> > >
> > >
> > > I haven't read the list today, so I don't know if I'm missing
> > > anything recent, but I want to run this by all these smart and
> > > creative people while I'm thinking about it:
> > >
> > > I set up a kiddie pool last night I had bought earlier to use as a
> > > backyard fish container. It's a pastic canvas model with steel pipe
> > > supports. Looks like it was made in Brazil. I'm going to look into
> > > the cost of replicating this design with steel electical conduit and
> > > fittings, if I can find the pieces I need. Then throw some cheap
> > > liner material over it. I want to try this as a design for a
> > > raceway/mini-riffle for breeding darters and madtoms. Any good ideas
> > > for corner fittings to assemble lengths of steel conduit pipe into a
> > > box-shaped frame? I suppose iron plumbing pipe would work, but it
> > > has to be much more expensive than the conduit. I need a corner
> > > fitting that will accept conduit pipe at 90 degrees in three
> > > directions. In other words, two pipes for the horizontal supports
> > > and one pipe for the vertical support (and one of these assemblies
> > > for each corner of the pool). Alternatively, I could use 90 degree
> > > couplings, and then use "T" couplings nearby for the verticals. Does
> > > that make sense? Any ideas about what I can use for these couplings?
> > > Maybe these are common parts and I just need to go to the hardware
> > > store? Thanks!
> > > --
> > > Mark
> > > Ohio
> > > USA
> > > <))><
> > > ----------------
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> > / reflect the beliefs or goals of the North American Native Fishes
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-- > /"Unless stated otherwise, comments made on this list do not necessarily > / reflect the beliefs or goals of the North American Native Fishes > / Association" > / This is the discussion list of the North American Native Fishes Association > / nanfa_at_aquaria.net. To subscribe, unsubscribe, or get help, send the word > / subscribe, unsubscribe, or help in the body (not subject) of an email to > / nanfa-request_at_aquaria.net. For a digest version, send the command to > / nanfa-digest-request_at_aquaria.net instead. > / For more information about NANFA, visit our web page, http://www.nanfa.org /----------------------------------------------------------------------------- /"Unless stated otherwise, comments made on this list do not necessarily / reflect the beliefs or goals of the North American Native Fishes / Association" / This is the discussion list of the North American Native Fishes Association / nanfa_at_aquaria.net. To subscribe, unsubscribe, or get help, send the word / subscribe, unsubscribe, or help in the body (not subject) of an email to / nanfa-request_at_aquaria.net. For a digest version, send the command to / nanfa-digest-request_at_aquaria.net instead. / For more information about NANFA, visit our web page, http://www.nanfa.org