RE: NANFA-- Algae in Public Aquaria

Nicholas J. Zarlinga (njz_at_clevelandmetroparks.com)
Thu, 30 May 2002 08:07:34 -0400

I would have to second Pete's sentiment on the subject. I would like to
add though that there are some other little tricks of the trade that you
can do to reduce algae on the front glass. With hanging lights, you can
put a "shadow board" over the front edge of the aquarium so that when the
light shines down into the tank, the shadow created by the shadow board
shades the front glass, therefore reducing the light on front glass.
Another is to position the lights in front of the aquarium shining toward
the back. Not only does this show off the colors of the fish better, but
it again keeps the light off the front glass. The less time spent cleaning
algae, the more time there is to do fun things!

Nick Zarlinga
Aquarium Biologist
Cleveland Metroparks Zoo
216-661-6500 ex 4485

"Fish worship... is it wrong??" (Ray Troll)

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002 4:57 PM, Pete Liptrot
[SMTP:coelacanth_at_btinternet.com] wrote:
> > In the public aquarium world, is algae normally controlled by regular
> physical scrubbings, > or is it kept from ever _starting_ by maintaining
> specific water conditions? ...or is there > some other magical trick?
>
> If there is a magical trick I'd be delighted to hear it.
> It's usually a combination of things I'd say. Physical cleaning does play
a
> very big part, whether by pole cleaning, heavy duty algae magnet, or
> actually getting in there. Cleaning of one sort or another is probably
the
> dominant feature of the working day for most aquarists in Public Aquaria.
> Water changes are also important to keep dissolved nutrients low, and
with
> freshwater these are easier and cheaper to do in volume than with marine
> water (unless you are situated actually on the coast.
> For large freshwater displays light intensity is often relatively quite
low
> which helps to limit algal growth.
> Anywhere with a decent number of smaller freshwater displays often
attracts
> at least one dedicated passionate aquarist with a particular interest in
> maintaining high quality displays of this type. This is very important.
In
> my view people will watch a well set up smaller freshwater display for at
> least as long as they will watch some plump old Sand Tiger circling ad
> infinitum (not knocking this species especially, you do need a 'pull' to
> actually get people through the doors in order to tell them more about
the
> wonderful world of fish).
> Biocontrols are always useful as well. It's amazing the amount of work a
> healthy young pair of Ancistrus can save you, and even Apple snails have
> their uses!
> Algae is rarely a problem in your average Malawian Mbuna display.
> There are always the variables though. Take three displays at work, all
> around the 1000 gall. mark. All with same water source and water change
> routine, pretty much the same filtration and lighting (6500K MH). The one
> that has the least problem with algae is by far the heaviest stocked one,
> with the messiest fish (mixed Amazonian community) that get more food in
one
> day than either of the other two get in a week.
> All have very low nitrate and phosphate because of the volume and
frequency
> of water changes, but the two lightly stocked aquaria each have varying
> degrees of growth of filamentous algae and cyanobacteria.
> With my own home display aquarium, a small South American display with
some
> rare and cute Dwarf Cichlids, I'm currently struggling with a hideous
> cyanobacteria outbreak, whereas my play tanks here in my mini-office in
full
> sun for half the day have nothing more than a light growth of filamentous
> algae. Same water, same foods, similar loading. The tank downstairs has a
> filter system I built myself, these up here all just have cheap
commercial
> sponge filters.
> Sometimes you just have to scratch your head.
> Pete.
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